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You are about to embark on your Twin Coast Discovery Highway journey. This is a scenic route of great diversity and will delight you in your travels along throughout this beautiful region.
Kumeu - Kaiwaka
Kumeu • Huapai • Muriwai • Parakai • Helensville • Wellsford • Kaiwaka
From Auckland central follow signs for the North Western Motorway — State Highway 16 towards Kumeu — the service centre for the rich horticultural and farming areas of Rodney. This region was once home to mighty Kauri forests, and the inevitable sawmills.
Once through Kumeu, a two-minute drive will bring you into the village of Huapai where a stop to visit Devine Clothing — which carries designer seconds, samples and overruns as well as quality recycled clothing — could prove very worthwhile. This is the sort place where you get those one-off items that all your friends are jealous of.
Continuing on Highway 16 a short drive will bring you to the Muriwai Beach turnoff. Turn left here and a 9km drive will being you to Muriwai Beach and its famous gannet colony. This west coast beach is patrolled by surf lifesavers and offers magnificent views combined with great walking, tramping, fishing and swimming.
For the keen golfer, head to the Muriwai Golf Club down towards the beach. Turn right at the fire station on to Coast Road to find the magnificent links course on your left, a truly all weather golf course.
Retrace your steps to State Highway 16 and turn left. A 15 to 20 minute drive will bring you to a T-junction, turn left here for Parakai, a great place for a bit of rest and recreation. A wonderful place to stay is the Parakai Geothermal Motel with its natural hot mineral pools in each unit and congenial hosts that will help make your stay memorable.
After a refreshing stay in Parakai, make your way to Helensville — a five minute drive — and take time to visit the Helensville Pioneer Museum where three historic buildings are sited on the river reserve on your left just before reaching the township.
As you continue on this scenic drive along State Highway 16 towards Wellsford you will see magnificent panoramic views of the Kaipara Harbour, with the shoreline encompassing over 3,200 kilometres.
At the end of Highway 16 you will find Wellsford, turn right here and just as you leave the town centre on your right you will find excellent accommodation with Glenda and Grant, at the Castle Court Motel.
To continue your journey head north through the retail centre of Wellsford. After about ten minutes you will reach the settlement of Te Hana — make sure you call into The Arts Factory behind the café on your right, where you will discover a working arts studio and gallery. Do allow plenty of time for a visit here. They have a range of contemporary and traditional Maori and European artworks, and the studio is home to ‘Jewellery for Giants’. Slabs and garden features — made from native timbers thousands of years old are also available.
Continue north across the bridge and up the sharp hill from Te Hana to the delightful town of Kaiwaka which is famous for its night-time displays — the whole town turns into a fairyland of lights after sundown.
At the top of the hill entering Kaiwaka on your left you will see the Shamrock Auto Care who can give you professional help with any car problems, or provide a full service to ensure that your onward journey is trouble free.
The Kaiwaka Information and Service Centre is on your left as you drive down the hill through Kaiwaka. If there is anything you need to know about either the Kaipara District, or the Kauri Coast, this is the place to stop.
At the bottom of the hill on your left, the fascinating unusual architectural features of Café Eutopia, instantly attract the eye. Organic food, excellent espresso, and plenty of easy parking at this sculptural art venue make for an interesting stop.
Sharing the same parking facility and just opposite is the Kaiwaka Cheese Shop. Known to travelling kiwis as the Dutch shop, this is a one-stop deli, full of the most glorious specialty cheeses, meats, other delicatessen fare, and unusual food products.
Matakohe - Paparoa
Matakohe • Maungaturoto • Whakapirau • Paparoa
Keep travelling along State Highway 1, and in a few kilometres you will see a Twin Coast road sign giving the distances to the various destinations on the West Coast route. Turn left at this junction which is the start of State Highway 12 and begin your journey into the amazing ‘Naturally Historic’ world of the Kauri Coast region.
Seven kilometres brings you past the dairy factory and to Maungaturoto — a ‘Real New Zealand Town’. Maungaturoto is the second largest town in the Kaipara District and is the service centre for the local farming community.
As you leave Maungaturoto on your left you will see a turnoff to Whakapirau, a beautiful settlement on the shores of the Kaipara Harbour. Here you will find Conrads Country Retreat, a relaxing, restful accommodation option.
If you are continuing your journey north, driving along State Highway 12 for approximately ten minutes you will arrive at the small village of Paparoa (the Village in the Valley), steeped in olden day charm.
In the middle of town the opportunity to stock up is offered by The Paparoa Store. It’s a good solid country store with an extensive range of food and grocery items as well as a substantial range of organic, gourmet and deli products.
Fill up your car at GAS Paparoa, and you’re bound to find something else in there you need — they stock a wide range of grocery necessities, as well as fishing gear. If you are in Paparoa on a Saturday, you may be lucky enough to catch the Paparoa Farmers Market — an opportunity to mingle with the locals and pick up some fresh produce.
As you leave Paparoa take a worthwhile detour left to Pahi The turn off is 100m past the Paparoa Hall and showground, on the corner you will find the Paparoa Motor Camp which offers both powered and unpowered campsites, as well as cabins.
About 5km down this road, before reaching Pahi, there is a turn off to some outstanding accommodation. The Haigh House is a fully furnished homestay where you can enjoy some quality time out in idyllic surrounds, with views of the Kaipara Harbour. When you get to Pahi, a further kilometre down the road, there is a stunning spot on the left to explore this beautiful and historically rich area at the end of a peninsula on the Kaipara.
To continue your journey retrace your steps and turn left onto State Highway 12. After crossing two quirky little one-lane bridges, you will see the turn-off on your left to Matakohe and the internationally acclaimed Kauri Museum. Don’t miss this museum, it is one of Northland’s must do attractions.
The museum collection is huge and includes a reconstructed pioneer boarding house, an extensive gum collection — both raw and worked — a reconstructed kauri saw mill, world-class quality displays and information on the history of kauri in Northland.
Allow at least two hours for your tour of the museum, it is truly an outstanding attraction.
About 50 metres past the Kauri Museum on the right is Matakohe House, a renowned licenced café, and restaurant which also operates a as a bed and breakfast hotel. Enjoy genuine kiwi home-cooked food and congenial traditional hospitality at this first-class establishment. Wide green views over the river valley make for magnificent peaceful surroundings.
Dargaville, Pouto and Tangowahine
Dargaville • Te Kopuru • Pouto • Tangowahine
Heart of the Kauri Coast
Once you’ve left the Matakohe hills, the next 40 kilometres of State Highway 12 passes through what could be considered Northland’s best dairying country — fertile flat, alluvial land created by the Northern Wairoa River. This highway takes you through the township of Ruawai.
Stay within the speed limits here and watch for the right-angled turn at the end of the town. Now you’re entering kumara country. The roads are long straights with the occasional deceptive bend.
You’ll see the small but sharply pointed Tokatoka volcano, known locally as the Witch’s Hat. Keep your eye to the left as you run alongside the mighty Northern Wairoa River. Dargaville is the next stop.
This riverside town is the main service town of Northland’s West Coast and is steeped in back-breaking kauri timber and gum digging pioneering history. You’ve arrived when you cross the river on a long two-lane bridge. As you come off the bridge take the first turn on your left which leads to the town centre. Dargaville is considered especially attractive because there are NO traffic lights, NO parking metres, plenty of parking, and outstanding shopping and services.
The Kauri Coast Launderette on SH12 offers an ideal opportunity to catch up on your internet correspondence while the machine does your laundry. To get you around the area, or to make your evening out in town stress-free and enjoyable, use the local friendly taxi service, Town and Around.
There is a good choice of restaurants and bars in the town centre. For meals and drinks at very reasonable prices, there are two clubs — The RSA would love to see you if you are a member or have reciprocal visiting rights. The Dargaville Club is looking out for new members — you have to belong to the club, or be signed in to drink or dine here.
The Northern Wairoa Hotel has everything you need for an overnight stay, offering a choice of rooms upstairs, and a public bar where you can relax over a drink before dining in their restaurant.
If you are after any information about the area when you arrive in Dargaville you will need to drive through the town centre, turn left, cross over the little bridge at the end and drive down River Road.
After a few hundred metres you will find Murdoch Street on your right which is the main road north, turn here and on your left you will see the Information Centre, where friendly staff who know the district very well can assist you with all your needs locally, or help with arrangements you may need to make for the rest of your journey throughout Northland.
In the same building you will find Woodturners Kauri Gallery, the working studio of world famous kauri wood artist Rick Taylor. Walk around the shop and be amazed at how rough pieces of wood have been transformed into magnificent works of art.
If you are interested in maritime history be sure to visit the Dargaville Museum at Mount Wesley — follow the signs leading you to Harding Park. The masts and rig from the Rainbow Warrior stand in memorial to the sinking of the Greenpeace flagship.
The museum houses artefacts, including a gum washing machine from pioneering days, and tells the story of the history of the area. The views of the river are fabulous, and a walk through the grounds will take you into lovely nooks and crannies, including an original pa site. There is plenty of parking but be warned, the gates close at 8pm for those who might be enjoying a late evening summer picnic while taking in the sunset.
On returning to the main road after visiting the museum, turn right to visit Te Kopuru and Pouto. Just before reaching Te Kopuru you will see the Aratapu Tavern. This is an example of the classic old time New Zealand Tavern, stop for a drink, a bite to eat and soak up the atmosphere. They also offer very respectable accommodation and restaurant dining.
If you like a boutique style luxury country stay, choose High Norton which you will find on your left as you reach the top of the hill entering Te Kopuru. It’s a magnificent old home with marvellous river views. Get a massage while you’re there and really revel in the luxury.
If you are looking for the ultimate escape then continue down the Pouto Road for about 45 minutes to Pouto Point. Here you will find the Pouto Camp Ground and the Pouto Hideaway Luxury Waterfront Unit. This place is very special and offers peace, quiet and absolutely magnificent views. Spend your time relaxing, walking along secluded beaches or throw out a line. The fishing is great.
If you would like to experience rural Northland and explore its natural beauty, on your return to Dargaville, you should take a short detour out of town on SH14 towards Whangarei to Tangowahine Farm and Rural Retreat. The scenery is stunning, and your hosts are friendly and informative.
Baylys Beach - Waipoua Forest
Baylys Beach • Kai Iwi Lakes • Kaihu • Waipoua Forest
Retrace your steps to Dargaville to rejoin the twin coast touring route and head north on State Highway 12. After about three kilometres look out on your left for the turn off to Baylys Beach, where you can gain access to Ripiro Beach which, at 107 kilometres long, is New Zealand’s longest driveable beach.
Baylys Beach Holiday Park, provides an ideal spot for motorhomes and camping, they also have a range of accommodation. Hire a quad bike at the holiday park and enjoy a freedom ride on the beach.
The Baylys Beach takeaway, dairy and bar is Sharky’s. They have become something of a local icon, offering wholesome food, selected groceries, papers, and a pretty good pool table.
No visit to Baylys Beach is complete without a visit to The Funky Fish for a meal or maybe just a coffee. This delightfully funky café/restaurant on the main road through the settlement enjoys a great reputation.
Waitangi Day is NZ’s national day which is celebrated on 6 February every year. Plan to be at Baylys Beach on that date and enjoy the ‘Beach Bonanza’ — entertainment for all the family no matter what your age.
A word of advice! Treat the water with the utmost respect. Don’t drive on the beach unless you have 4-wheel drive, and always swim on an incoming tide. If in any doubt, ask a friendly local for advice.
After visiting Baylys Beach, return to State Highway 12 and head north. Take a short detour off the route to the Kai Iwi Lakes, which are definitely worth a visit. The turnoff is well signposted on your left, 24 kilometres north of Dargaville on State Highway 12.
The Kai Iwi Lakes in the Taharoa Domain are a much enjoyed destination for many kiwis and overseas visitors. These brilliantly hued fresh water lakes lie in a cluster surrounded by cool pine forests.These are basin-type dune lakes. Kai Iwi’s Lake Taharoa extends over 237ha while Lake Waikere covers 35ha, and Lake Kai Iwi 33ha.
In sheltered surroundings within the Taharoa Domain The Kai Iwi Lakes Camping Ground is open all year offering basic facilities, but no power.
When you return to State Highway 12 on your way north you will see Nelson's Kaihu Kauri on your right. This huge showroom specialises in kauri handcrafted items and a large selection of solid Kauri furniture. There are products on sale from over 12 different woodturners. Allow plenty of time to visit this spacious well lit showroom.
Just along the road a bit you’ll find Kaihu Motors, the last petrol station for a long way. Pick up food and nibbles for sustenance and keep heading north through the Kaihu Valley, where much of Northland’s kauri history was wrought by pioneers in the harsh conditions of yesteryear.
Keeping on the main road past the Trounson Park turnoff you will enter the Waipoua Forest, the home of the world famous Tane Mahuta ‘God of the Forest’. This majestic tree rises before you in all its glory and is only a short walk from the road.
Hokianga
Waimamakau • Omapere • Opononi • Rawene • Kohukohu • Mitimiti • Broadwood
Continue towards Hokianga and when you get to the delightful little settlement called Waimamakau, plan a food and coffee stop here at Morrell’s Café. This is highly recommended — fabulous food and with a lovely gift shop as well.
As you drive north look out on your right for the signs to Labyrinth Woodworks and Maze at Waiotemarama. Make the effort to visit them and be entertained by Louie as you explore a great range of arts, crafts and puzzles.
Return to the main highway to continue north, and exercise extreme care as you approach the top of Omapere Hill. The impact on drivers of the sudden spectacular view can at times be a traffic hazard.
Half way down look for Signal Station Lookout Point on your left. The spectacular five-minute walk to the southern point of the Hokianga Heads is an absolute must do. The Hokianga provides a range of activities, so check these out at the Hokianga i-SITE, which is opposite the area school on the waterfront between Omapere and Opononi.
If you stay in the area, the Opononi Lighthouse Motel with its waterfront position and proximity to the store and hotel makes a good choice.
You may prefer a bed & breakfast option — Ti Kouka is set in a large private garden, with stunning views over the golden sand dunes of the Hokianga Harbour. If you’d like to be more independent, contact them to rent one of their holiday homes.
From Opononi, the highway passes through Whirinaki before reaching the Rawene turn-off to go north. If you are heading for the Bay of Islands and not going further north, then follow the highway straight ahead.
In Rawene, one of NZ’s early settlements, pass the hospital and at the bottom of the hill turn right into Clendon Esplanade. The renowned Boatshed Gallery and Café with its big city quality in a small town setting, is set here on piles over the harbour.
From Rawene, cross Hokianga Harbour by ferry. As you leave the ferry you will come to the picturesque settlement of Kohukohu. Time has almost stopped in this historic harbourside village. Definitely worth exploring.
In Marriner Street, Night Sky Lodge offers ensuite accommodation overlooking the harbour with views to the ranges beyond. Or take a 40-minute scenic drive via Panguru to Mitimiti, and stay at Mitimiti Beach House.
Continuing north along a very pretty route you will come to Broadwood where you will find a store and accommodation options. On Mamari Village Road Broadwood Homestay is a two-storey house surrounded by lush greenery.
Ahipara - Far North
Ahipara • Kaitaia • Houhora • Pukenui • Cape Reinga
Beyond Broadwood the drive eventually brings you to crossroads at Herekino. Turn right for Ahipara.
Ahipara is nestled at the southern end of the famous Ninety Mile Beach on New Zealand’s far northern West Coast.
If you intend staying in this beautiful part of Northland, try Ahipara Holiday Park with a variety of accommodation options from tent sites through to self-contained cabins and a lodge.
The Ahipara Adventure Centre is a great place to start your Ahipara experience. Here you can hire mountain bikes, kayaks, sand toboggans, surf and body boards. They also have fully automatic quad bikes for you to freedom ride and explore this amazing place.
For the very best in fresh new Zealand fish at excellent prices, stop in at BIDZ on the beach front for a really special fish and chip meal.
When it’s time to leave Ahipara, turn left at the Wainui junction and head through Pukepoto to Kaitaia, fifteen minutes away.
Kaitaia is Northland’s second largest town. A major service centre with a substantial shopping district, hospital, and all the services you would expect to find in a reasonable sized town. Stock up in Kaitaia before you head further north, because stores are few and far between. The Far North is still today relatively remote.
A useful first port of call in Kaitaia is the Kaitaia i-SITE in Centennial Park, South Road. They have all the information you will need under one roof, and the friendly staff will be happy to make activity and accommodation bookings for you and provide maps and brochures for onward travel.
There are several options for visiting Ninety Mile beach and it is recommended that you take the advice of the local experience available. Harrisons Cape Runner provides comfortable coach tours, driving on Ninety Mile Beach up to Cape Reinga. If you’d like a bit of fun and excitement, you can toboggan down the magnificent Te Paki sand dunes.
In the old days when Te Paki Station provided the only regular fresh meat in the very Far North, the cattle muster would bring as many as seventeen thousand head of cattle down the beach in the annual drive to Kaitaia. The world land speed record was broken on Ninety Mile Beach on 26 January 1932, by Norman ‘Wizard’ Smith who established a new official record of 164 miles per hour, despite less than ideal conditions.
In Kaitaia, accommodation at very reasonable rates can be had at the Orana Motor Inn in Commerce Street. Their restaurant and bar saves any need to do anything but relax in the spa or swimming pool after your travels.
If you are looking for backpacker accommodation you will be well served looking in at the Kaitaia Hike and Bike Backpackers located on Kaitaia’s main street. From private telephone, TV and video to outdoor BBQ, this spacious hostel offers all the amenities that one could need.
Located just minutes from central Kaitaia, The Northerner Hotel is spacious and relaxing with a wide range of accommodation, from studio units to family and executive suites, they have an excellent restaurant on site, as well as a spa and sauna.
Once you’re ready to venture further north, and if you haven’t taken a tour up Ninety Mile Beach, head north on the newly sealed state highway to visit Cape Reinga and experience the spectacular views where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean.
Karikari - Doubtless Bay
Karikari • Taipa Bay • Manganui • Whangaroa Harbour • Matauri Bay
After returning from your Cape Reinga tour, your journey will continue by heading south down the east coast.
Be sure to turn left to the Karikari Peninsular. The sea views are breathtaking, and there are plenty of opportunities to have fun on the water. Kite surfing, diving, kayaking, are just some of the watersports on offer. This is also another Northland fishing mecca, and charter boats are available to take you out for the day.
Retrace your steps to State Highway 10 and head towards Taipa located in the crook of Doubtless Bay, and a worthwhile destination on your itinerary.
Enjoy a stop-over at the Taipa Bay Resort. This exclusive beachfront resort is an absolute prime waterfront location with 32 rooms tastefully decorated in relaxing Mediterranean style. Enjoy pool, spa, and tennis courts, or just relax and spend an evening at their beachfront restaurant.
Continuing south, you’ll want to take a wander around picturesque Manganui village where there are some wonderful boutique shops, and a good choice of places to eat
and drink.
About 15 minutes out of Manganoui along SH10 you should take a detour off the main route to see the awe-inspiring scenery at Taupo Bay. One of the best ways to experience the area is to rent a holiday home on the seafront from Taupo Bay Rentals — you may never want to leave.
When you do manage to tear yourselves away, head back onto the highway heading south and take time to explore the splendour and unspoiled natural beauty of the towering cliffs and sheltered coves along the coastline of the Whangaroa Harbour. There’s plenty to do here, including fishing, diving and bush walks.
To continue your journey south, head back to the State Highway and continue through Kaeo up a long steep curved hill. Watch on your left hand side for Matauri Bay Road at the top of the hill, and follow this route to Matauri Bay where you’ll find another paradise which will be hard to leave.
This is an excellent place to base yourself for diving the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior, or to simply enjoy the scenery from the walking tracks around the rocks.
Bay of Islands
Kerikeri • Paihia • Haruru
As you drive back on the Matauri Bay Road to rejoin SH10, stop off to take a walk around the fascinating Teraire Water Gardens for an insight into ancient New Zealand plant life. Kiwis and glow worms are a feature of the garden after dark.
On reaching State Highway 10 and still travelling south, a drive of approximately 15kms will bring you to a well marked signpost for Kerikeri. A short distance down this road you will find Makana Confections where they make world-class chocolate of every exquisite type, and package them for you — if you think you can keep them long enough to make a gift of them before devouring them yourself.
Retrace your steps and rejoin State Highway 10 heading south following the signs to Kawakawa which is famous for its tiled public toilets — a comfort stop with a difference, designed by Austrian artist Hundertwasser. The Trainspotter Café is directly opposite the famous toilet, so you can stop in for that much needed coffee and muffin, or stay longer and enjoy a great café lunch.
After leaving Kawakawa turn right at the T-junction to visit Paihia — known as the jewel of the magnificent Bay of Islands.
There is a profusion of backpackers’ hostels in Paihia — one of the biggest is the Saltwater Lodge in King’s Road. Custom built with comfort and usability in mind, it is New Zealand’s first 5-star backpackers.
If a small personal hostel set in a sub-tropical garden paradise suits you, go for the Pickled Parrot Backpackers. Choose from dormitory, double, twin or single accommodation, or pitch your tent.
The Paihia i-Site on the waterfront is the main source of brochures, maps and local information. Friendly staff will make your bookings and give directions to all activities and accommodation in the area. Let them look after your forward plans and make your travels stress-free.
Paihia can be a place for a relaxing time on a lovely foreshore beach, or a base for a range of exciting activities. There are many adventures to be had — including jet-skiing, fishing and sailing.
The very best way to experience the beauty of the Bay of Islands is to get out onto the water in a boat. Contact BOI Boat Charter to hire their top quality launch — they can also provide a skipper and crew for you.
If fishing is on the menu then call Eddie at Blue Sea Charters, they have the boats, the skippers, and the experience to give you a great day on the water chasing kingfish and big snapper.
For a diving experience to remember, Porpoise Dive offers you scuba diving — for all levels of diving experiences — in some of the Bay of Islands finest dive sites.
For a special souvenir shopping experience, visit the award-winning store The Cabbage Tree. Their friendly team will help you choose from an extensive range of high quality New Zealand gifts which include paintings by local artists, hand blown glass and possum wool clothing.
Paihia was originally settled semi-permanently by Maori, and then by white missionaries — at the invitation of Maori — in 1823. These early settlers didn’t have the luxury of serviced accommodation but Maori, led by Chief Te Koki built a raupo (swamp grass) whare of four rooms, for the first two families who arrived with six children between them. Today Paihia provides a number of options for accommodation.
For an upmarket stay in Paihia, check into the Kingsgate Hotel, with views across the bay’s brilliant blue-green sea to famous Russell. Indulge yourself with the indoor spa, restaurant, swimming pool, hot tub and gymnasium.
The Bay of Islands provides an ideal opportunity to go parasailing, which involves attaching you to a parachute and towing you behind a speeding boat. As the boat accelerates, your chute lifts you into the air. Try going up to 1,200ft, the highest possible in New Zealand and enjoy the view across the bay. There are no age restrictions, so this activity is suitable for the entire family.
If you prefer it, you can fly in tandem. Flying Kiwi Parasail has over eighteen years’ experience with a spotless safety record. They’ll even take your photo so you can show off to friends and family later. Leave from Paihia or across the bay at historic Russell.
Still in the mood for adventure? Then take Northland’s highest tandem skydive with Skydive Zone. You’ll free-fall for just over a minute at 200 kilometres per hour with the roaring wind flying up past your ears.
Once you get the chute up, there is only gentle silence and the magnificent view. There’s a free pick-up service from Kerikeri or Paihia. Your friends are going to want to see you in this action, and you’ll want the memory for years, so be sure to enquire about getting a DVD when you book.
Russell - Hikurangi
Russell • Whangaruru • Oakura • Helena Bay Hill • Hikurangi
From Paihia, follow State Highway 11 to Opua, a journey of only a few minutes. Take a short trip on the car ferry from Opua to Okiato and head into the historic and romantic township of Russell, where you’ll find art galleries, boutique shops and cafés.
Russell is one of the earliest settlements in New Zealand, and it has a rich and colourful history — Hananui Lodge is a perfect base from which to explore the area.
The lodge is located right on the waterfront of this picturesque settlement and the apartments are situated on Russell’s main road just a few metres away from the water’s edge. Whether you are looking for a quiet hideaway or for action and excitement, Hananui Lodge and Apartments can accommodate your every need.
After leaving Russell, travel south on the scenic coast road towards Oakura — one of New Zealand’s most beautiful beaches.
Stop in at Whangaruru at The Farm. This 1,000-acre working dairy farm caters for visitors of all types, from working holiday students, to horse people, families and motorbike travellers. Bring your own boats, boards, bikes, friends and horses, or use theirs.
They’ll teach you to ride a horse or motorbike. You can stay with them in the farm house, or in a cabin or tent, or you can build your own wilderness camp. Spin yarns round a campfire or have a party in the woolshed!
Northland Dive keep their 100-acre base and 26-bed dive lodge along this route, known locally as the Old Russell Road. Julia and Shane specialise in dive tours. Both are highly experienced divers and Shane is a Master Scuba Dive instructor.
They’ll take you to dive on the scuttled wreck of HMNZS Canterbury lying off the Bay of Islands in 38 metres in Deep Water Cove. The Canterbury was sunk on 3 November 2007.
Continue along Old Russell Road up to the top of the Helena Bay Hill where you can stop to take in the magnificent views. This road will take you to a junction with State Highway 1. Turn left to head towards Whangarei, Northland’s largest town. You’ll pass Hikurangi on your left, a historical coal mining area. Watch for the sign to Tutukaka on your left.
Tutukaka - Whangarei
Tutukaka • Whangarei
After reaching State Highway 1 from Oakura, your next destination is Tutukaka. You will see the signs on your left. At Hikurangi, turn left to drive through gentle farming country at first and then into higher bush country. Follow signs past the pretty estuarine beach of Matapouri towards Tutukaka.
Tutukaka boasts some spectacular seascapes, beaches, bush-clad headlands, sand fringed estuaries. There are walkways so you can explore the breathtaking scenery, and other activities to enjoy, such as diving, surfing, swimming, fishing and kayaking, or simply relaxing on the beautiful white sandy beaches.
As you come in to Tutukaka, turn left enter this hidden and very sheltered marina. The Tutukaka Store is on your left and sells groceries, beer, wines and spirits, fishing accessories, petrol, diesel and gas refills plus lots of other goodies. The store is open seven days.
There are other shops on the marina, cafés with great views over the harbour, and plenty of accommodation available.
Tutukaka Harbour is a gateway to the Poor Knights Islands, marine and nature reserve and international diving treasure — 23km off the coast. The 11 million-year-old Islands’ volcanic origins provide spectacular walls, caves, arches and tunnels, and they are abundantly populated with unique and incredibly varied plant, animal and fish life.
Dive! Tutukaka is New Zealand’s premier full-service dive charter operator, servicing the Poor Knights Islands — ‘the best sub-tropical diving in the world’. They offer world-class underwater experiences for every level of diver, as well as snorkelling, kayaking, sightseeing, and other ways to explore the fabulous Poor Knights Islands.
When it’s time to leave Tutukaka, follow the signs for Whangarei to enjoy the urban facilities of the largest township in Northland.
As the largest centre in Northland, Whangarei town has a population of 48,000 with another 26,500 living in rural/coastal areas. Maori settlements around the district have been dated to around 1,200 years ago but oral history suggests Whangarei was first populated by Maori in around 1000 AD. By 1845 twelve European families were recorded living in the settlement. A. M. Rust, in his Reminiscences of Early Whangarei published in 1935 records his father, John Stewart Rust as having arrived in 1854 when there were only 36 houses existent in the town.
Today Whangarei bustles with a quality downtown shopping district and much business activity. Whangarei Airport at Onerahi, just 8 minutes from the central business district, supports a busy domestic service around the country along with options for the visitor with scenic flights, and helicopter joy-riding.
Whangarei boasts many entertainment facilities and shops, as well as historic sites and beautiful scenery to explore, so you may be tempted to stay to stay for a while.
Coastal Holiday Homes make it easy for you to book a self-catering holiday home for a couple of days. They have a great selection of properties, from family homes to private getaways — all of them set in unique and stunning positions in unspoiled locations over Northland.
If you’d rather be looked after in hotel-style accommodation, some of the best service and views can be had at the Comfort Hotel Settlers which overlooks the spectacular Hatea River, close to the Whangarei Falls. It is an ideal base from which to explore nearby Mount Parihaka and the Parihaka Scenic Reserve with its walking trails and sightseeing opportunities.
There are many good restaurants in Whangarei — one of the most popular in the town centre is the Killer Prawn Restaurant and Bar. They won the Northland Innovative Chef Award in 2009 and have long been frequented by locals who know where to find a good meal and an enjoyable environment for a drink.
If you’d prefer a more intimate atmosphere, the Butter Factory Bar and Café boasts luxurious ambience, and an extensive list of fine wines and cocktails. It is linked via a stairwell to another, more recent addition to the Whangarei scene — Butterbank, a sophisticated hideaway which combines excellent decor with superb food, drinks and music.
A trip to Whangarei isn’t properly done unless you visit the Town Basin. You can stroll along the river waterfront and investigate the cafés and shops. You’ll find it rewarding to have a leisurely look around Reyburn Art Gallery. They always have exhibitions by Northland artists as well as wonderful paintings, prints and objet d’art for sale.
The people of Whangarei are not lacking in promoting the arts. The Riverbank Centre is the home of the local amateur dramatics group, Whangarei Theatre Company, who produce three shows each year to appreciative audiences.
‘Hot Mikado’ is their latest production, to be performed during May and June. The story is pretty much the same as that given by Gilbert & Sullivan, and you’ll recognise the tunes and words, but the new rhythms — a high-energy mix of blues, swing, gospel and jive — will surprise and delight you.
The Whangarei Mid Winter Arts Festival will be a cultural feast not to miss, running from the 30th July throughout August. There will be plenty of diverse performances and exhibitions to look at around the town, ranging from fine art to belly dancing.
If you want to get involved during the festival, there are some amazing workshops taking place — some serious, some fun — ranging from African drumming and circus skills to Tibetan culture and classical guitar. Check out the website for more details www.mwaf.co.nz.
Bream Bay - Waipu - Mangawhai
Marsden Point • Waipu • Mangawhai
And now begin your southward travels again. Leave Whangarei on State Highway 1, and follow it for approximately 25 minutes until the large roundabout. Turn left to begin the Bream Bay section of your exploration.
Follow the Port Marsden Highway until you reach the Marsden Point Oil Refinery where the Visitors’ Centre will thoroughly engage you. Learn about the technological processes of oil refining and about the history. There’s a café so you won’t run short of sustenance.
Next door to the Visitors’ Centre is the fascinating complex of the
NZ Refining Company, and across the harbour, seeming to almost hang over the refinery is the magnificent Mount Manaia and the north head of the Whangarei harbour entrance. Nearby, Port Marsden is a busy, deep water working container port handling mainly timber and oil refining materials.
Retrace your route to State Highway 1 and turn left to head south. Three separate turn-offs lead to Waipu so don’t panic if you miss the first one. But do make sure you call in to Waipu which has a colourful history.
Descendants of the first ships to arrive in Waipu, originally crofters from Scotland, still populate the area. Visit The Thistle of Waipu for genuine imported Scottish products as well as a good range of NZ made giftware and souvenirs.
Revive yourself at the Waipu Hotel or stay and have a meal and a good night’s sleep. Accommodation comes with a kiwi continental breakfast. They’ve been serving beer for many years at the hotel, and now they also serve great food, and put on some great live entertainment. Enjoy that cold one in the beer garden or shoot some pool with locals.
You’re spoiled for choice in Waipu with the range of outdoor activities in the area. Naturally, the beaches here are all beautiful. Drive a little way along the coast for access to the various beaches and yellow sand coves. Do the Mangawhai Heads walk, or visit Waipu Caves.
The Waipu Cove Resort is a perfect place to find relaxation — and is situated less than 100 metres from beautiful Waipu Cove Beach and the Pacific paradise of Bream Bay. It offers a choice of varying sized apartments, each with their own patio. From here you can enjoy swimming, surfing, fishing, fossicking in rock pools or just take a stroll along the beach.
After leaving Waipu, continue south on one of the prettiest scenic drives (Cove Road), through to beautiful Mangawhai. The popular coastal township of Mangawhai was originally settled by Maori. In the 1800s English pioneers began to arrive for the gum trade and kauri timber, and the picturesque township has been populated
ever since.
There is a varied choice of accommodation types in Mangawhai. If you prefer to camp, you probably can’t beat a spot down by the estuary at Mangawhai Heads Camping Ground. They offer powered sites, cabins, caravans and units, with a boat ramp nearby and a playground for the youngsters. You’ll only be a short drive from beaches, golf, cafés and shopping.
On Saturday mornings between 9am and 1pm, the Mangawhai Market is in full swing down at the village hall. Enjoy the colour of a local market with plenty of gifts and art and craft items to peruse.
Mangawhai beaches provide good surfing, swimming, boating, fishing, windsurfing, kayaking, and of course, light coloured sand perfect for throwing a towel over and sunbathing. Be aware that the Northland sun is particularly strong in summer and use a sunscreen and a hat.
Let’s go further south.
Leigh - Goat Island - Warkworth
Leigh • Goat Island • Whangateau • Matakana • Warkworth
When you leave Mangawhai heading south, you’ll connect up with State Highway 1 which continues towards Warkworth and Leigh.
At the first set of traffic lights you encounter coming into Warkworth, turn left and follow signs to Leigh and the Goat Island reserve.
Leigh is on a very pretty harbour and is the base for Goat Island tours and activities. This marine reserve is 100 metres from a safe access beach and the channel is only two metres deep, providing shallow conditions for all the family to explore the wonders of aquatic life.
While visiting the seaside do the traditional kiwi thing and have fish and chips. From January take advantage of seven-day opening and sample the fare from Leigh Fish & Chips.
There are many activities to enjoy while in this area, so book into some accommodation and take full advantage of your time here.
Camp or park the caravan at Whangateau Holiday Park on the serene Whangateau Harbour. You can catch up with the laundry while you’re here and save money by cooking for yourself in one of two well-equipped communal kitchens.
Alternatively, try the Leigh Motel just three kilometres from Goat Island. This is quiet accommodation surrounded by gardens, with views of the Hauraki Gulf and Little Barrier Island, and it’s within walking distance of local cafés. Choose from studio units or self-contained cottages.
Island View Bed and Breakfast is a modern, stylish, architecturally designed home. Your hosts Shirley and Tom Rutherford offer three breakfast options. Breathtaking views make this a lovely accommodation choice.
Pakiri Beach Holiday Park is south-west of Leigh, offering golden sand, swimming, surfing, beach fishing and kayaking on the estuary. As well as having excellent camping facilities and cabins, they offer a choice of stylish beachfront cottages and luxury lodges. It’s a friendly place to stay and very relaxing.
Retrace your steps from Leigh back to the delightful village of Matakana with its high quality shops, restaurants, bars, boutique wineries, market gardens, unique arts and crafts, and the cinema.
Not far from Matakana itself, on Omaha Flats Road, look for Matakana Country Park on your right hand side. This is the home of the Craft Co-Op at Matakana Country Park — definitely the place to pick up a lovely memento or a stunning gift for a friend — you’ll find pottery, woodwork, jewellery, silk printing, lavender products, and much more.
For centrally placed accommodation, choose Matakana House Motel in the heart of Matakana village. The motel is modern and newly built — you could spoil yourselves by booking into their honeymoon unit which has its own spa bath.
Not far from Matakana, horse people, or budding horse people will enjoy a day at Horse Riding Warkworth. They have horses and ponies to suit all ages and levels of riding ability. All rides are supervised, with treks going over farmland and through forest. You can also get riding lessons here.
Is a horse too close to the ground for you? Then take a scenic ride with Skytours New Zealand in their Bell Jet Ranger helicopter. The versatility of a helicopter is an exhilarating experience for any age, whether you’re looking at rushing mountain rivers and waterfalls in the depths of the rainforest or passing over idyllic golden beaches.
With adventure on your mind, use their services to fish from a private location on Great Barrier Island in the morning, picnic at a waterfall at midday and dine on the finest cuisine at a prestigious lodge of your choice in the evening.
It won’t be easy to leave this magical part of Northland, but there’s more to see a half hour or so south of this place. Collect your things and get back onto State Highway 1 for the last leg.
Waiwera-Whangaparoa
Waiwera • Orewa • Whangaparoa
You are now on the last leg of your twin coast journey as you travel south towards Auckland. Watch for signs to Puhoi, a village established by Bohemians in 1862.
The Bohemians were part of a migration from Europe encouraged by the then NZ government by the gift, for those who paid their own fares out, of 40 acres per adult and 20 acres per child. They were taken by cutter to the mouth of the Puhoi River and then transferred to Maori canoes and paddled up the narrow river to a landing place.
The pioneers struggled beyond the imagination of most people who enjoy modern facilities and pleasures. One such pleasure available in Puhoi today is Devonshire cream tea at NZ’s oldest tearooms, the Puhoi Cottage Tearooms. Don’t go past these. The garden environment is fragrant and peacefully green, and the fare is very good.
For some of the best accommodation in this historic area, Kauriglen offers you a choice from four self-contained private lodges tucked away in the native kauri bush. It’s a peaceful country retreat by the river, but nevertheless has all the amenities you could wish for, including satellite TV, high-speed internet, BBQs and hot tubs.
When you return to State Highway 1, continue towards Auckland. A few kilometres down the road you’ll notice signage directing you to use the toll road or to take the alternative scenic route.
Take the scenic route, or you’ll end up bypassing Waiwera which is famous for its thermal springs. To visit Waiwera and relax in the warm waters you’ll need to turn left off the main highway at the bottom of a long hill just past a curved bridge.
Return to SH1 and turn left to continue south for a few kilometres to Orewa for your last chance to stay at the seaside before heading back into Auckland city.
The Edgewater Motel has been situated on Orewa’s golden seaside coastline for the past 20 years — stay here, and you can simply walk straight out of your room across their front lawn for a stroll on the beach. They are well established and have a reputation for friendly dedicated service.
Very different in style, The Nautilus provides 1-3 bedroom self-contained contemporary luxury apartments, each having a private balcony with spectacular views and modern amenities. You’ll enjoy the resort-style facilities which include swimming pool, spa, sauna and gym as well as a landscaped roof-top garden.
While in Orewa, take the chance to purchase those gifts and souvenirs that you keep forgetting to pick up because you’re so engrossed in your travels — pop in to Gecko Unique Gifts in Moana Avenue. Their shop is filled with a beautiful range of quality New Zealand gifts and souvenirs created by talented artisans to truly reflect the flavour of Aotearoa and the Pacific.
Once the shopping’s taken care of, there’s just the wide beach to walk on, kicking your toes through the sand, smelling the salt air, enjoying this particular view of the Hauraki Gulf, the Whangaparaoa Peninsula to your right. Or maybe you haven’t had quite enough salt water yet and you can be encouraged to swim once more.
Then find your way back onto the motorway and it’s straight into the big smoke of the Auckland Central Business District.
We trust you enjoyed your Northland experience and hope that you will return with friends and family.
Be happy, keep smiling and drive with care.
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